this summer i'm, like, psyching on surfing cause i'm trying to get back into it and since the onshores start blowing at about 5:30 AM in ventura, i've been trying to make it to orange county and beyond a little more than normal.

this particular evening was at trestles. 6 foot high tide. decent south swell. first i rode a fiberflex 5'11" but i wasn't getting any drive on those slopey faces. kept getting stuck in the middle of nowhere with no speed.

this video actually starts when i grab a 5'8" which is possibly the end of the road for my obsession with straightening the rail line on short boards. 18 3/4" is the wide point and its 8" up from the center. from there to the tail is straight. like, really straight. it rides like a gerry lopez gun if you cut it in half. it's tricky but sort of rad. you can stomp on the tail and pretend your hoyo.

i'm not sure what kelly was riding but everything looks like a magic carpet under his feet.

every morning we'd wake up at 4:30 or so... shea would make us coffee. strong. the type that makes your throat scratchy and your head throb. then we'd drive down a hill then up a hill and the windows would be down and we'd listen to 'in my life' by the beatles. seems appropriate at that time of the morning. then we'd pass him and he'd wink or smile. an intergalactic totem with a face of industry. mouth full of live wires. "goodmorning, captain," "goodmorning sir"

one afternoon we stopped and took pictures of him

-costa rica, june 20x11