today

feeling bad about lack of preparation i decided to surf snapper rocks after the competition ended. i rode a rocker ridden 6'1" 3/4. if i tried to count how many people were out i would have lost track. I saw Mick Fanning flying down the line and scrambled out of his way to duck dive. when i resurfaced he was flying through the air with his board flipping and fluttering through the air behind him. dane gadauskas' put a stop to that. micks surfboard stopped bluntly on the top of his head. his head hung in the water for a few moments and i was preparing for a rescue. he looked up and spoke: "that was classic." i don't think he was ok. he paddled in. snapper rocks is dangerous. i also hit a log while riding a wave. i caught 6 waves. more than i expected. more of an obstacle course than a wave. i exited the water without gaining any preparation. I've told 4 people this story.

today

i rescued a bug today. a big fellow came in through the open slider about dusk. he was lost. must have been going home after work and was distracted by our living room lights. he made several passes at the light before succumbing to confusion and settled on the ground. i picked him up and took him outside where he got his bearings and flew on. courtney also rescued four bugs from drowning at the pool while sunbathing. i have no images of this. tomorrow i surf in the quiksilver pro in the first heat.

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Ok. so this all started about a year ago. well sort of. actually five years ago; kind of. when i was filming for First Chapter my grandpa bob thought i might be interested in using his super 8 camera. he drove from the desert to drop it off and brought an 8mm projector and some reels as well. it was shot while he was stationed in europe for the military. they visit amsterdam and paris and some other cities i don't recognize. my mom had just been born. i was fascinated by the footage and generally the way of life in the early 60's. when quiksilver came to me for a t shirt project i found myself back at my grandpa bobs reels. i made 3 t shirts and a booklet based loosely around the images from the reels. when the first booklets were printed my mom sent grandpa bob one; now this is strange considering my grandpa didn't know all this was goin on and i use cuss words etc. which i can't imagine he'd be thrilled about. this was his response: "Great surprize in Last nights mail. A little booklet that your note said was made by Dane. Boy did it light up de ole homestead. It pushed de ole gloom right out of de back door. We found ourselves back in time driving all over Europe in a 1953 chevy with burnt valves. We, Bekki and I, were reminded that we had two passengers on that trip, a month and a half old baby girl named Blendi and a camera totten 18 or 19 year old girl named Janet.. This booklet has brought joy into our ole lives again." it goes on for a little bit finally concluding with a PS stating: "he writes in some gothic / pioneer way..." that's nice. the images posted here is a mix of projections (not the ones on the shirts) and parts of the booklet. look for quiksilver to relentlessly try to sell you the shirts soon.

hawaii in 8

filmed in and around the Pipe Masters by Dustin Miller and Darren Crawford with a Bauer super 8 camera that apparrently doesn't meter very well.

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wonky waves + wonky keyboard


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+ bobby martinez

my friend james


this was brought to my attention today. it was on a Surfer Magazine forum. either it's a joke or this guy is totally crazy. Maybe i just don't remember. i mean, this has happened so many times. i'm always an asshole to guys with no talent. and i can't even count how many of those no talent fuckers threatened to smash my board on the rocks. james deserves an indian burn for making shit up.
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